Belt & Alternator Replacement
 

This was not the main goal of this repair project but done along with tracing down

an electrical gremlin, oh the joy of working on 37 year old Ital

 
 
Now remove the metal bulkhead cover, about 10 bolts.
 
 
 
 
Put these aside, they're big and get in the way, great time to wipe everything down, I use Simple Green Degreaser as a spray mixed 50/50 with water, you'll get used to the smell.
 
 
 
 
The dirty side of the beast that lives within
 
 
 
 

If you're simply changing or tightening a belt, you're almost half finished by now -

if you are tightening the belt, loosen the top alternator mounting bolt, pry the

alternator as far to the left as you can and re tighten the bolt.  You should also

check for cracks in the belts, no use leaving bad belts in place, they always

break 112 miles from help!

 
 
 
 

If you are replacing the old belt, push/pivot the alternator as far to the center of the

car as you can.  You should now be able to easily remove the belt - I used a

41cm V belt. Slip the new belt into place - now do it all again backwards

- you're finished!

P.S. - You should have about a 1/2" of play in the belt when pushing it down in the

center, it should be snug, but not completely unable to move down, if you install it

too tight, it will break in a short period of time.  If Anti-Freeze spills on a rubber belt

it will cause squeaking, if yours has been exposed to Anti-Freeze at all,  save

yourself the trouble - bite the bullet and just get a new belt, they're cheap!

This is also an excellent time to check for weeping from the water pump, oil

leaks from the front main seal or anyplace else that is usually a pain to see

from the backside.

 
 
 
 

If you are replacing the Alternator know now that the bottom pivot point bolt

is a real pain, you need a stubby wrench and ideally it should be done from

the driver's side.  Hold the back nut in place and use a ratchet from the

front to turn the bolt.

 
 
 
 
Once loosened, wedge the alternator in place so that you can disconnect the wires without putting any strain on them.
 
 
 
 
10 colorful words later, it's out!
 
 
 
 
Here's the old unit.
 
 
 
 
Looked for Motorcraft numbers that would help me find a suitable replacement, none of those printed on the unit were worth a crap.  My alternator unit is for a 1992 Ford E-150 Econoline Van with a 302 engine, 95 amp with an internal fan and a built in voltage regulator.
 
 
 
 
Old and new sitting side by side.
 
 
 
 
The front pulley had to be exchanged at the parts store, they do this for you.
 
 
 
 
This number might be helpful
 
 
 
 
The complete shopping trip, 1 alternator, 1 new belt, tube of dielectric grease and two cans of brake clean.   Not seen in the photo are a good fluorescent trouble light, a drip pan, lots of rags and of course a few tools.   ZZ Top music and or Speed TV is optional!
 
 
 
 

First, I had to have a clean work area, everything was wiped, scraped and sprayed down

with brake clean, this also included the inside of all the electrical connectors.

 
 
 
 

A metal catch pan was placed under the car to save the

floor from falling greasy dirt and brake clean drippings.

 
 
 
 
Dielectric grease was put onto all the alternator connectors.
 
 
 
 
The new alternator was wedged in place and reconnected to all the wires
 
 
 
 
The new belt was slipped on and properly tightened.
 
 
 
 
Much cleaner than when I started.
 
 
 
 

Reinstalled the metal bulkhead, the decorative bulkhead

cover, the seatbelt bar with belts and the seats.

 
 
 
 
All back in one piece.  It took about 5 hours including the hour at the Auto parts store, there was no big hurry, your actual mileage may vary.
 
 
 
 
 
 
The End!